Venice to Venice

In 1844 Opatija began its life as a resort; with stunning coastal views and a mild climate it quickly drew an aristocratic clientele. The Grand Hotel Kvarner opened its doors, noblemen began to build spacious villas, and Opatija became the fashionable seaside resort of the Austro- Hungarian Empire. Here elegant ladies strolled the lush gardens and parks in the shade of parasols, and dancers swayed to the tempo of the waltz. On a terrace overlooking the blue bay, kings and emperors negotiated alliances and hatched plots. The grand residences of the wealthy are now hotels that still exude the air of elegance of a bygone age.

Perched on Adriatic Sea in Croatia, Zadar is a truly captivating city, where history-drenched cobblestone streets meet contemporary life, then surrounded by deep blue sea, green olive groves, and white stone. Dubbed an “outdoor museum”, Zadar is rich in monuments and churches from ancient and medieval times—the circular 9th century Church St. Donat, the Church of St. Simeon and the Romanesque Cathedral of St. Anastasia—while nature lovers should explore Krka National Park and its seven waterfalls. Meander through the pedestrian-only Old Town, with its fortified city walls, towers and gates, then visit Zadar’s famous urban installations on the Riva, where art, architecture and science combine. Be sure to check out The Sea Organ, which extends into the sea and “whistles” with the waves and air pressure, and Greeting to the Sun, a circular construction of glass plates that produces an exceptional light show.

Hvar frequently appears on lists of the world’s most appealing islands. Its fertile plains and fresh water springs support glowing fields of lavender, fruit orchards, ancient olive trees, and vineyards, which you are invited to visit, producing some award winning “garage” wines, which you are encouraged to taste. Or perhaps you prefer an espresso while people watching in the town square, followed by a stroll through picturesque streets that reveal centuries of Dalmatian history. Of note is the handmade agave lace, now on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, made by Benedictine nuns in their secluded convent.

To visit Dubrovnik is to step back in time to the Middle Ages. The town is one massive museum, its thick walls constructed from the 13th to the 17th century encircle the entire city, and contain within them a treasure trove of striking architecture – squares, fountains, palaces, churches, and monasteries, all built from the same stone, line streets free of motor vehicles. Once the only city-state on the Adriatic to rival Venice, Dubrovnik has long been a center for Croatian culture, and home to artists and scholars of all disciplines. It is possible to circumnavigate the city atop the medieval walls.

Kotor’s beautiful bay has long attracted passing ships that stopped to trade, plunder, or conquer, and merchants, pirates, and soldiers of numerous empires have walked this maze of cobblestone streets before you. One of Europe’s best-preserved cities of medieval or Renaissance vintage, its walls were constructed right into the steep slopes of the mountain behind it, providing protection and making it an amazing sight on approach from the sea. Venetian ramparts enclose a rich history, with churches of varying styles, and a Romanesque cathedral built on the foundations of an earlier church, and a still earlier Roman temple.

Just 55 miles north of Split is the city of Sibenik, situated where the River Krka meets the Adriatic. Since 1066, it has been under rule by Croatians, Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, Yugoslavians, and once again back to Croatians—which has resulted in a diversity of international influences. This is particularly evident in the old part of Sibenik, with its many churches, palaces, Dalmatian houses, as well in the city’s stone walls and four fortresses: St. John, St. Michael, St. Nicholas and Šubićaevac. A must see is the Cathedral Sveti Jakov, and if you love the great outdoors, then visit Krka National Park or Kornati National Park.

Pula may be a relatively undiscovered gem by most modern-day travelers, but with its protected harbor and strategic location on the southern tip of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula, it’s proven a popular hit with invaders. For almost 3,000 years, Pula has been home to everyone from the Romans, Ostrogoths, and Venetians to medieval knights and the Austro-Hungarian empire.